S25 - Session P2 - Genetic resources, domestication, breeding - Chemical and sensory evaluation of three lavender essential oils according to their origin and production mode

Authors: Thérèse Gohin, Marine Olivier, Nesrine Oukoulou, Zoé Panchout, Sarah Surinon-Garnier, Ludovic Andres, Samuel Laboisse *

Chemical industry offers a significant variety of natural fragrances to supply the demand in associate sectors (perfumery, cosmetics or household products). Societal demand of natural products enforces the use of olfactory elements arising from local production and natural acquisition. Specifically, lavender essential oil is one of the most popular. In our study, we wanted to evaluate three terroirs, three botanic origins and specific extraction ways, in order to help manufacturers and perfumers to achieve their own purposes. One essential oil from organic lavender cultivated in France, and two essential oils from non-organic lavender cultivated in France and Bulgaria are considered. We realised cross assessment, based on chemical evaluation with chromatography technic and sensory analysis with a young and naive panel. Characteristics of people sample have a significant impact on sensory evaluations, as well as essential oil origin. Nevertheless, it is different to use chemical way than the sensory one to evaluate essential oil. The panel has a high preference to Mailette lavender essential oil rather than AOC lavender, which is not consider to quality oil according to the panel. Chromatography evaluation shows that this essential oil satisfies to the quality criteria. Lavandin was appreciated, even more if people considered itself as educated to the lavender fragrance.